different size of hand holes on different movement pin

 Sharing with you all something I devise by myself during my period of watchmaking. As I always work on Chinese movt and quartz. Getting spare hands and desire style/color of hands can be a problem as support for this movt is not as wide as standard ETA 2824 and Seiko Movt.

Plus as your watch making experienc accumulate, I believe most have collected a wide variety of hands which you all do not want it to be waste but used on other pin movt for other projects. Only the different size hole is stopping it from happening.

Of cos, if the size hole is too small, simple! Get sharp pointed file to increase the size hole but if the size hole is too big. What will you do?

I always like to use super glue to narrow down the size hole and make them fit and secure to the pin holder.

I use a set of toothpick and super glue.

Dip a drop of super glue on a piece of paper , use the toothpick tip and dip on it.

Then try to spread around the hole of the hand hole to form a fine layer of super glue around the hole. Let the glue dry for about 20-30mins to make sure the glue is totally dry and harden.

Then try to fit it on the pin holder again. If the hole is too big, spread the glue to cover up the whole hole. Wait for it to dry about 3mins then poke on the center of the glue to make a small hole slightly smaller than the intended pin holder size. Then let the glue to complete dry and harden. After that mostly, the hands is able to fit and hold firmly onto the pin holder.

THis is one of my project watch using a ronda swiss quartz movt 715 fitted with hands left over from Seiko 7S26.

Same as second hand pin. If the second hand pin is too big to fit the desire pin. File the second hand pin holder smaller to fit the second hand. If its the hands problem like second hand pin is too big and not able to hold onto the pin holder firmly. Dip a very small amount of super glue onto the hole of the second hand pin and quickly fit onto the pin holder. You need to act fast since super glue dry very fast if not the hole might be seal by the super glue but the benefit of using super glue is, they are very strong and able to fix your second hand firmly onto the pin. It will not come off easily even with huge amount of shock.

The method I devise, is very simple and will not cost lots of money. With small amount of practice. It can be done fairly easy.

 

 

ETA 2824 hands:	DG2813 hands :
Hour: 150 (1.50mm)	Hour: 150 (1.50mm)
Minute: 90 (0.90mm)	Minute: 100 (1.00mm)
Seconds: 20 (0.20mm)	Seconds: 17 (0.17mm)

is H3 or H4

2824-2's standard height is H2
2836-2's standard height is H3 or H4 (different sources report this differently) in order to accommodate the extra thickness from the elevated date/day discs  

The 2836 uses H3 to H6, with H4 being standard.

Z2 (2813 high beat)

The old movement was the Z2 (2813 high beat) and the new movement is an ETA 2824-2 clone..The hands and dial feet are are direct swap..The crown was unscrewed from the old stem and screwed onto the new stem for the Eta clone.

the Sea-Gull ST2100 is an excellent choice and Hangzhou 6300 also very good. The Liaoning SL-3000 is reportly also very good. The 2824-clone that has been reported least satisfactory has been the Shanghai Z2.
Z2, the crown height is the same as the 2836, and .5 mm off on the 2824, so im not 100% sure this swap will work seing as hes using the 2824
 The following are known Chinese manufactured clones of the ETA 2824. They have all been sold to 3rd party assemblers as well as used by the house-brands of their respective manufacturers. The Sea-Gull movements have also been used as ebauche for Swiss movements. Perhaps some of the others have too.

Sea-Gull ST21 series (e.g. ST2130)
Hangzhou 6-series (e.g. 6300)
Liaoning Peacock SL3000
Shanghai Z2

This shows the evolution from the eighties-era-designed Shanghai B to the recently-developed Z2. The movement in the middle is a kind of improved Shanghai B.The newly-developed Z2 is indeed a very good movement, on a par with his Seagull counterpart.

brasé de l'étain sur un cable en acier.

parfaitement possible de brasé de l'étain sur un cable en acier.
Il vous faut de la graisse de décapage qu on utilise pour les
brasures a l'étain pour les tubes de cuivre.
Du fil d'étain pour réalisé votre brasure
Le reste est dans la technique d'application.

passez l'éxtrémitée de votre cable au papier de verre
( important il doit être bien propre et sans poussière)
ne plus touché avec les doits une fois le nettoyage exécuté.

Trempé l'extrémitée du cable dans la graisse de décapage
(au plus il y en a sur l'extrémitée au mieux c'est)
Faites chauffé votre fer a souder (electrique)
Oui un fer a souder comme pour faire les soudures sur des composants électriques ; résistances diodes ect..

Quand votre fer est chaud
appliquer du fil de brasure directement sur le bec du fer a souder évidement en petite quantitée de façon a ce que vous
ayez une petite goute pendante d'étain sur le bec
Prenez votre cable
et passé le doucement dans la goute d'étain qui est sur le bec de votre fer a souder

Si ca ne prend pas alors préchauffé un peux l'extrémitée
du cable avant d'y appliquer l'étain

Normalement y a pas de problème, apres un ou deux éssais
vous devriez réusir

Starking AM0184

1. the hands of an ETA fit
2. it has four dial pin screw positions that make it suitable for both DG2813/M8215 and ETA 2824/2836 dials, dials that have four pins actually fit with all four of them without the need to cut any of them
3. the canon length is quite short, but the Starking watches come with an extra thin spacer, also with four cut-outs to fit any kind of dial. Do watch out for thick dials for this reason, especially with thick markers.
4. the watch is about as cheap as most low beat movements in this category
5. The main spring has jewel bearings, so it has at least two more jewels as a DG2813
6. The date flip transition takes about a quarter of an hour from starting to move to actually flicking over
7. The date wheel is a bit smaller than DG2813, so beware
8. DG2813 or ETA date wheels don't fit as they're too thick, especially since the short canon.
9. the movement is 99% based upon a DG2813, but different enough to not fit the high beat parts. At least I didn't succeed to make a swap there, and made two attempts. I couldn't figure out why yet, checked all the parts under the magnifiers (Mantis and HD cams with macro lenses) I have.
 1813 Full dimension drawings

Features: 3-pin / calendar
Dimensions: ø26mm
Thickness: 5.18mm
The median: 2.03mm
Frequency: 28800 times per hour
Gem: Diamond 25 (25 jewels)
Movement type: automatic winding / manual winding crown

aligning the six pivots

After spending a healthy couple hours rebuilding two of these movements of learned a couple things: 
First, if you rearrange the letters and numbers in A2813 it spells “Satan’s illegitimate demon spawn”. 
Second, after struggling through aligning the six pivots over and over - I finally realized the dang click is constantly in the way. I ended up using a very small piece of rodico to hold it open while I set the bridge. Voila! I set it first shot after that. With the click not pushing on the  paw winding wheel it stood straight and made life easier. Just be careful not to place the rodico in a way that get it pinched and gummed in there once assembled.

 Another trick is just to turn it 180° and put it back after the plate has been mounted. It works perfectly