MEDIDAS

Elemento	Descripción / Medidas
Espaciador de movimiento (plástico ETA 2824)	Diámetro exterior base/pared: 29 mm x 27 mm x 5,4 / 6 mm (con extremo) Altura total: 6 mm + 4 mm + 0.1 mm = 10 mm
Diámetro del dial	30.7 mm x 4 mm
Caja	Diámetro donde reposa dial/movimiento: 31 mm Altura: 3.2 mm (desde dial hasta parte donde va el cubre) Altura: 4.4 mm (desde dial hasta borde superior con cubre cerrado) Altura mínima del espaciador: 4.4 mm
Arandela plana (acero inoxidable 304)	M25 x 30 x 0.1 mm (ultrafina)

Technical Details

Lignes Dimensions	11.5 ‴
Dimensions	26 mm
Height	5.1 mm
Further Measures	Mounting Diameter (Dm): 25.6mm Ball Bearing: 0.1mm Stem height (T): 2.25mm Mounting Height (F): 1.65mm

espaciador de movimiento de plástico ETA 2824  diametro exterior base pared 29mm x 27 mm x 5,4/6 mm  (con el extremo )

Altura total . 6 mm + 4 mm + 0.1 mm 10 mm

Diametro del dial 30.7 mm x 4 mm

MEDIDAS DE LA CAJA

Diametre 31 mm la ou repose le dial et le mouvement.

hauteur de 3.2 mm a partir de la ou repose le dial jusqua la partie ou va le couvercle.

hauteur de 4.4 mm a partir de la ou repose le dial jusqu'au bord superieur du couvercle fermé. Cad hauteur minimale du movement spacer

Arandela plana ultrafina de acero inoxidable 304, M25x30xthick 0.1mm 

https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005002046188859.html

junta tórica espesor CS 2mm OD 31mm ID 27mm

https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005001600933050.html

2836-2 : 

Overall Diameter	26mm
Casing Diameter	25.60mm
Height	5.05mm thick

Stem cutting

Stem cutting
FOR SCREW DOWN CROWNS.
A) Screw down the crown tightly onto the case without the stem and
measure the distance between the bottom of the crown and the case.
B ) Screw the new stem tightly into the crown, then insert into
the watch until it engages and locks into the movement.
C) Press the crown down firmly as far as it will go and hold it
there.
D) Using the vernier callipers, measure the distance between the
bottom of the crown and the case.
E) Subtract the size determined in (D) from the size measured in
(A) then subtract a further 0.15mm from this size. This is the amount
to shorten the stem by. This should allow the crown to screw full
home without compressing the stem too tightly between the movement
and the inside of the crown.
F) Cut the stem leaving it slightly longer than the size
determined in (E), and dress down to size using the diamond lap and
vernier callipers as described in the original post.
G) Screw the crown onto the shortened stem and check fit and
function, before using a tiny spot of Loctite to secure.

stern removal

Time set position is for ETA 28xx series. On the 21j and most others you want to remove the stem in winding position. You will want to reinsert it while pressing the release button. (I'm a watchsmith) , with the ETA 2824 you should have the keyless works in time setting position when you remove the stem otherwise some of the component parts get out of sync and you have to reassemble them from the dial side.

https://www.watchuseek.com/threads/stem-wont-reinsert-on-movement.4509511/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rvM7NHP9Z64

Dos and Don'ts:

Always r/r the stem in setting position.

Use a screwdriver that fits into the detent button 'keyway'.
If you use a pin or little bitty screwdriver it is easy to push the detent button too far and shove the setting lever out of whack...this is probably what happened.


The fix:
Remove the hands, dial, and date wheel/s...fun fun! Look closely and see if you can tell what is out of whack by comparing it with a clear picture of the same movement with all setting parts in their proper location paying close attention to make sure the 'yoke' is riding in the groove in the sliding pinion. If not, this happened when the stem was removed in the wrong crown/stem position.


The other problem...detent button stuck too deep in the plate is also fairly easy to spot...the set lever will be sitting too far away from the plate and probably out of mesh with the 'double corrector' lever.
The fix is to loosen the screw/s holding the parts in place and move them back to their proper position.


I know all the above sounds like a lot of hooey but after comparing dislocated setting parts to a clear picture of correctly assembled setting parts it will be fairly easy to put it all back in place correctly. Look at an oiling chart or parts list on the 'net to ID the parts.
Btw...put it back together with the stem through the sliding and winding pinions.


If you can scare up a high mileage (aka cheap) Eta 28xx or disabled etaclone somewhere, get it and practice on it. You do not need the winding assembly, just everything on the dial side.

Believe it or not, it is fairly easy to fix these problems, the worst part being r/r the hands and dial if you have not done it before. The dial hands r/r will involve a hand remover of some sort and a steady hand...plus good magnification.


'Quick and Dirty' sliding pinion reset:
Sometimes you can reset the sliding pinion when the stem has been removed in the wrong position by removing the auto wind assembly, ratchet wheel, and barrel bridge (with the stem removed), then see if you can slip the sliding pinion back to where the 'yoke' is back in the groove, install the stem, see if it winds and sets, and leave the stem in setting position to remove it again if needed.

Watch Hands Installation TUTORIAL -

 

On these movements you need to use the red screwdriver to push the stem release button, it's just the right size.

dial dot

 Dial dots are this sort of stuff, available with paper backing on both sides for handling and applying.

They do add some thickness, about 0.25 mm when finally compressed in the case, not enough to interfer with hand, unless the watch had abnormally tight clearances to start with.

The main concern is keeping the dot off anything that moves on the front side of the movement.

on ETA 2824 and 2836 you can just glue directly to the spacer ring and don't need the feet.

How to reattach fallen Dial Indices

Hangzhou 6311 Seagull ST2100

Seagull ST2100

My estimate is that these two movements, the Seagull and the Hangzhou are priced about the same. The additional work done on the Seagull to decorate the external features is compensated for by skipping minor non-essential work in unseen areas. While the Hangzhou maintains a uniform dull workmanlike finish everywhere.

Also, the Hangzhou is manufactured more like the ETA than the Seagull, every part and almost every machine cut is the same on the Hangzhou as on the ETA. It just has three more jewels (for a total of 28, same as the Seagull.)

The Seagull, however, is not "just a copy" of he ETA 2824-2. It is a re-engineered version of the ETA 2824-2. Unnecessary, wasteful and difficult processes have been removed and a more simplified process put in their place. This is another way Seagull can spend more time on making the outside pretty, without increasing the production time and thus controlling the cost.

Which one would I use in a watch, if I were to make one (on a mass scale)? The Seagull.

Now, you may ask why would I pick the one that I have just ranked the lowest for my choice. There are several reasons, not the least is the name "Seagull," which does carry some weight, in that it is known as a quality movement producer. The second reason is the Seagull just looks so much better that the poor plain Hangzhou. And third, there is no real performance reason not to. The Seagull is just as clean and nice where it matters as either the ETA or the Hangzhou.

General notes on the overall design of the 2824-2 - The 2824-2 is the end of a long and involved evolution of movements. The end requirement was, apparently to make the least expensive movement possible, while maintaining reliability. Just about all of the springs are integrated into the parts that need them, this makes the 2824-2 one of the easier movements to work on.

By using the design of the ETA 2824-2, the Chinese have copied one of the best (affordable) movements offered by the Swiss today. It is not a vintage Elgin, from say, 1950, (the pinnacle of movement making, in my opinion) or a Rolex 3135, but then these movements don't cost what an Elgin did in 1950, or what a 3135 does today.

Provided the watch manufacturer keeps fingers off the balance wheel and dust and debris from floating around the inside of the case, either of the two Chinese movements should provide an excellent engine for any watch.